The City of Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Grape-Treading Fruit in City Gardens

Each 20 minutes or so, an older diesel-powered railway carriage pulls into a graffiti-covered station. Nearby, a police siren cuts through the near-constant road noise. Commuters rush by falling apart, ivy-covered garden fences as storm clouds form.

This is perhaps the least likely spot you anticipate to find a perfectly formed vineyard. But one local grower has managed to four dozen established plants sagging with round mauve grapes on a rambling garden plot sandwiched between a row of historic homes and a commuter railway just north of Bristol town centre.

"I've seen individuals concealing illegal substances or whatever in the shrubbery," says Bayliss-Smith. "Yet you just get on with it ... and keep tending to your vines."

The cameraman, 46, a filmmaker who also has a fermented beverage company, is not the only urban winemaker. He has organized a loose collective of cultivators who produce vintage from several discreet city grape gardens tucked away in private yards and allotments throughout the city. The project is too clandestine to have an official name so far, but the group's WhatsApp group is named Grape Expectations.

City Vineyards Around the Globe

To date, Bayliss-Smith's allotment is the sole location registered in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming world atlas, which features better-known urban wineries such as the 1,800 plants on the slopes of Paris's historic artistic district neighbourhood and more than 3,000 grapevines with views of and within the Italian city. Based in Italy non-profit association is at the vanguard of a movement re-establishing urban grape cultivation in traditional winemaking countries, but has discovered them all over the world, including urban centers in East Asia, Bangladesh and Central Asia.

"Vineyards assist urban areas stay more eco-friendly and more diverse. These spaces preserve land from development by establishing long-term, yielding agricultural units within cities," says the organization's leader.

Like all wines, those produced in cities are a result of the earth the plants grow in, the vagaries of the climate and the people who tend the grapes. "Each vintage represents the charm, community, landscape and heritage of a urban center," adds the president.

Mystery Polish Grapes

Back in the city, Bayliss-Smith is in a race against time to harvest the vines he grew from a plant left in his garden by a Polish family. Should the precipitation comes, then the pigeons may take advantage to attack again. "Here we have the enigmatic Eastern European variety," he comments, as he removes bruised and rotten grapes from the shimmering bunches. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they're definitely disease-resistant. Unlike premium grapes – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and additional renowned European varieties – you need not treat them with pesticides ... this could be a unique cultivar that was developed by the Eastern Bloc."

Group Activities Throughout the City

Additional participants of the collective are also making the most of sunny interludes between bursts of fall precipitation. At a rooftop garden with views of Bristol's glistening harbour, where historic trading ships once floated with barrels of wine from Europe and Spain, Katy Grant is collecting her rondo grapes from approximately 50 vines. "I love the aroma of the grapevines. It is so evocative," she remarks, pausing with a container of fruit resting on her arm. "It recalls the fragrance of Provence when you roll down the vehicle windows on holiday."

Grant, fifty-two, who has spent over 20 years working for charitable groups in conflict zones, inadvertently inherited the grape garden when she returned to the UK from Kenya with her family in recent years. She felt an strong responsibility to maintain the vines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This plot has already endured three different owners," she says. "I really like the idea of environmental care – of handing this down to someone else so they can continue producing from this land."

Terraced Vineyards and Traditional Production

A short walk away, the final two members of the collective are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. One filmmaker has cultivated over one hundred fifty plants situated on ledges in her expansive property, which descends towards the silty River Avon. "People are always surprised," she notes, indicating the tangled vineyard. "They can't believe they can see rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."

Today, the filmmaker, 60, is harvesting clusters of deep violet dark berries from rows of vines slung across the cliff-side with the assistance of her daughter, her family member. The conservationist, a documentary producer who has contributed to streaming service's nature programming and television network's Gardeners' World, was motivated to plant grapes after seeing her neighbor's grapevines. She's discovered that amateurs can make interesting, enjoyable natural wine, which can sell for upwards of seven pounds a serving in the growing number of establishments focusing on low-processing vintages. "It is incredibly satisfying that you can actually create good, natural wine," she states. "It is quite fashionable, but really it's reviving an traditional method of making wine."

"When I tread the fruit, the various natural microorganisms are released from the skins into the liquid," says Scofield, partially submerged in a bucket of tiny stems, pips and red liquid. "That's how wines were historically produced, but industrial wineries add sulphur [dioxide] to kill the natural cultures and then incorporate a commercially produced yeast."

Challenging Environments and Creative Approaches

A few doors down active senior Bob Reeve, who inspired his neighbor to establish her grapevines, has assembled his companions to pick white wine varieties from the 100 plants he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. The former teacher, a Lancashire-born PE teacher who taught at Bristol University developed a passion for wine on regular visits to France. However it is a challenge to cultivate Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the gorge, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to make Burgundian wines here, which is a bit bonkers," admits Reeve with a smile. "This variety is late to ripen and particularly vulnerable to mildew."

"I wanted to make Burgundian wines here, which is rather ambitious"

The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the only challenge faced by winegrowers. Reeve has had to erect a barrier on

Lori Weiss
Lori Weiss

A passionate writer and storyteller with over a decade of experience in fiction and creative non-fiction.